I don’t recall the exact moment that it happened, but I know that before the end of our first week of camping under the plane trees, watching the sun set over the river and the medieval city wall of Avignon, Provence had me under her spell. Though previous visits to street-savvy Paris, snowy Chamonix and serene Mont St. Michel proved that other regions in France also have their charm, the South has been luring me back like a homing pigeon since that first visit in 2001.

How can you enjoy the best of Provence without breaking the bank?

Start by choosing a quieter time of the year for your holiday. This year, in a momentary lapse of reason, we travelled in the middle of the French school holidays (normally running from the week-end closest to Bastille Day until the end of August). Bad idea. Not only is accommodation significantly more expensive, but you also have to contend with thousands of camper vans, cyclists and irate French drivers for roads that surely could only have been intended for two placid horses passing. Rather go during the six weeks of early summer (from 1 June to 14 July) or during early but still sunny autumn (September).

Try and book your flights more than five months in advance to get the early bird prices, or alternatively search for last-minute special offers. Check which airline is the cheapest by using a flight comparison website like travelstart.co.za. If you are flexible about your travelling dates, Travelstart searches the days around your specified dates for the cheapest fares. For example, the best deal for a return ticket from Johannesburg to Marseille in June 2010, all taxes included, is currently quoted at slightly over R8 000. If you prefer to take the train from Paris to Provence, the best quote for a return flight from Johannesburg to Paris during June next year is currently under R6 000. A return train ticket for two from Paris to Aix-en-Provence, for example, in the best price (not flexible) 2nd class retails for R1 662 (price for two people travelling together).

After years of struggling to navigate the official French railway site in French, I’m very happy to now see Raileurope.co.za not only quoting ticket and rail pass prices in South African rand, but also providing online tips on how to travel cheaper through France. I just wish I’d found out sooner about the discounts when you buy tickets in groups of two or more people (called Saver tickets), as opposed to solo travelling. I would have made friends right there in the queue with travellers to the same destination!

Whether you would need a car, depends where in Provence you’re going and what you’d like to do and see. Holidayautos.com is one of many sites comparing quotes from different car rental companies to find you the best price. But watch out. They – like their competitors – raise the prices every time you re-request a quote. It’s therefore best to use someone else’s computer to just browse for quotes and then make the final booking on your own computer. You can prepare to pay between R2 500 and R3 000 for seven days’ car rental. Remember to add diesel and toll fees to your budget, although a good French road map can help you to avoid toll roads and stay on the more scenic routes.

What about accommodation? If you own a comfortable home in a sought-after part of South Africa, home exchange is something to consider. Camping is also very popular in France and if you’re a nature lover you may find it difficult to choose between the many well-kept sites along the rivers. Tranquil Camping Bagatelle on the opposite side of the river from bustling Avignon remains one of my favourites – and they charge about 10 euro per night for two people sharing a tent. But if you’ll be more than two people travelling together or you prefer home comforts, and you want to stay in one area for a week or longer, you’d probably be better off renting a holiday home. This year I used Holidaylettings.co.uk and found a particularly good deal – a 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom home just south of Avignon for only 90 euro per night (if you don’t mind bringing your own linen and towels).

Good food and wine is probably one of the top reasons for going to France in the first place. But exceptional night-time dining does not come cheap and if you’re on a budget, you may want to restrict yourself to only a few such outings during your trip. Lunch time is different, though. Even top-end restaurants have a set 3-course menu at heavily discounted prices, and often a glass of wine and a shot of espresso are included in the fixed price. And don’t miss out on the French custom of buying fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, tapenade, saucisson and warm just-baked bread at a different market every morning.

The good news is that many great Provencal activities – hiking, swimming in the lakes of the Verdon, strolling along the cobble-stoned medieval streets, admiring the French sense of style in towns like Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, or playing boules late afternoon – are free. You’d probably find that, once you’re there and your accommodation is paid for, you don’t need much more than 50 euro per person per day. Bonnes vacances!

Tags: budget, France, holidayautos, holidaylettings, travelstart

This entry was posted on Thursday, August 13th, 2009 at 8:42 pm and is filed under Budget travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.